by Michael Jones I’m a huge fan of soups in Korea and Gamjatang (pork bone soup) is one of my favorites. When I found out that there was a Gamjatang alley near Saejeol Station (line 6) I made plans to go there as soon as possible. We’ve had this soup in a lot of places around Seoul, but the restaurant we went to in Gamjatang alley is hands down our favorite so far. By the way, the alley calls the dish Gamjaguk instead of Gamjatang. I’m not sure why, but it’s the same dish and it’s outstanding. We ordered the medium portion to split between three people (32,000) and the bowl was huge. The large bowl was overflowing with chunks of pork, potatoes, and some leafy vegetables. The tender pieces of meat were large enough to trick you into thinking they possibly came from a small dinosaur instead of a very large pig. The meat was incredibly tender and easy to scrape off the bone. The sauce was rich, creamy, and slightly spicy. The potatoes were boiled to perfection, soft and lightly brown. Every spoonful was an incredible variety of flavors on the tongue, from the spiciness of the broth, the rich fatty taste from the boiled pork, and the slightly bitter taste from the kkaetnip (perilla leaves). The kimchi at this restaurant was also incredible and we ate three sides of it. If you love Korean food as much as we do, I strongly advise you to visit Gamjatang alley. The experience is authentic and the food is out of this world.
Directions: Go Saejeol station (line 6) and come out of exit 2. Walk straight for about 200 meters until you see Wasangyo Bridge. Cross over the bridge and turn right. Turn into the first alley on your left and go straight. You'll cross an intersection and then see the signs for Daerim Market, where Gamjatang alley is. Sigol Gamjaguk is the first restaurant on the left side of the street. Enjoy
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by Michael Jones When I first moved to Seoul I was surprised by the amount of bakeries. Nearly every block has at least one bakery and oftentimes even more. I love bread, so at first I thought this was a good thing, but then I realized that a lot of the places simply weren’t that good. I’m speaking to you Paris Baguette and some of the other major chains. Paris Baguette is about as French as I am, and for the record that is zero percent. All I wanted to find when I moved here was a really good baguette and after a lot of trial and error, I finally found a great bakery in Hongdae. The name of the bakery is Paul and Paulina. It’s a small shop and in the afternoon there is usually a large line of college students waiting to quench their appetites for all things gluten. I’ve sampled a lot of the breads in the shop and the scones are delicious too, but I always buy a baguette. I switch between the white and brown baguette depending on my craving. A full size baguette is (4,000) and a half is (2500). The white baguette is a lot softer and easier to eat. It practically melts in your mouth as you eat it. The brown baguette on the other hand is still soft on the inside, but has a nice golden brown crust that is crunchy and amazing. The baguettes break apart easily in your hand and are the perfect companion to a good cup of coffee. I really need to find some good butter and bring it to this place because I’m sure combined with the deliciousness of these baguettes it would create a divine experience. If you like bread, this place is a must visit. If you know of any other great bakeries, then please let us know. We are always looking for an excuse to consume more bread.
DIRECTIONS: Hongdae Station Exit 9 Take a left immediately Walk straight until the road ends and turn right onto 와우산로 23 길 Walk down this road until you see the hill Walk up the hill and down almost to the intersection and Paul and Paulina will be on your left It is before the Starbucks and across the street from Crossfit AtoZ ENJOY by Ashley Heil Uncle Sam's Pancake is a great new breakfast spot that is actually open, before lunch, every day. They open at 7 and while they don't offer fancy brunch cocktails, they keep things simple, cheap, and most importantly delicious. A good breakfast is my favorite meal of the day, but I'm sick of paying 12,000 or more for a mediocre meal. From 7-10:30am, every day, Uncle Sam's Pancake offers a breakfast set for 8,000 won. It includes 2 delicious pancakes, 2 pieces of bacon, 1 sausage, 1 fried egg, and an orange juice or coffee. If you make it after 10:30 or want something else, they also have omelet sets, larger pancake sets, waffle sets, and french toast. Since we got there before 10:30, we ordered the morning set for 8,000 won. Everything was delicious. The pancakes were top notch, served with a little bit of butter, and on every table there was a bottle of real maple syrup, thankfully no Aunt Jemimas. Everything else was great too, the bacon was just right, and so was the egg and sausage. While it wasn't the most amazing breakfast I've ever had, it was really just as good as all of the other breakfast places I've been to, such as Butterfingers or the Original Pancake House (and if I remember correctly, the Original Pancake House charges extra for real maple syrup), and the prices here are much better. When I get breakfast I don't want to just eat pancakes, I want a full meal with more foods like eggs and bacon, so this set was perfect. The place is small, but the service was great and we were seated right away. We really enjoyed our food there and we might go back every weekend. So, if you're looking for a new breakfast place with delicious food without the ridiculous prices, Uncle Sam's Pancake is your restaurant!
Directions: Come out of Noksapyoung station exit 2 Walk up the road, and cross under the underpass when you see it. At the end of the underpass, turn left. Then turn right on the main road right up ahead. Walk up the hill (as if you're going to the Hyatt hotel). You'll pass the Well-Being gym and the big Cvs4u convience store. Then, cross the road right after the convience store. The restaurant will be on your left. Enjoy! by Ashley Heil Being pork lovers, samgeyopsal is one of our favorite Korean foods. However, sometimes the standard samgyeopsal that you get at a lot of Korean BBQ restaurants can become boring. A few months ago we started going to a new Crossfit gym in Hongdae, and we asked the owner what were some of his favorite restaurants in the area. He immediately told us to go to Dojeok (도적) for some awesome samgyeopsal, as it’s his favorite place for it in Seoul. So, that night we went. Over the past few months, we’ve continued to go back to this restaurant regularly and been amazed every time. We’ve brought Korean and foreign friends and they have loved it as well. This samgyeopsal is amazing. We have tried their traditional (plain) samgeyopsal, and it is great. It’s extremely tender, and one of our favorite for traditional samgyeopsals in Seoul. Sometimes while eating samgyeopsal you bite into those little hard pieces of cartilage that totally ruin a perfectly delicious bite, but you don’t get those here. Our favorite thing at this restaurant is the Gochujang samgyeopsal (13,000). I have to admit that the pictures don’t do this dish justice, it is hands down are favorite samgyeopsal in Seoul. The meat comes out marinated already and the servers help you cook it. The meal is also served with various raw veggies, such as carrots and sweet potato sticks that you can cook on the grill to enjoy alongside the meat. You also get the usual various lettuce wraps and garlic pieces, and a side of delicious doenjang jjigae (I just love this soup!). But it’s the meat that stands out here. The gochujang marinade is delicious and goes perfectly with the meat, but doesn’t have an overly powerful taste. The meat is good by itself or in the lettuce wraps. If you’re looking for a barbeque restaurant to go to in the Hongdae/Sangsu area, definitely give this place a try!
Directions: Come out of Sangu station exit 1. Walk straight until you get to the first big street on your right. Turn right on this street and walk along the left hand side. When you see the Babeans coffee on your left, turn left on that street and the restaurant is across from it. Enjoy! by Michael Jones I love Burgers, I guess I’m not helping dispel American stereotypes, and yesterday I found a great burger. The shop is called 별버거 and it’s located in the Sangsu area. I've also seen it mentioned as Star Burger on reviews because of the star symbol on their sign. Anyway, I’ve been to a lot of burger places in Seoul and although there are some good ones, oftentimes they are either too expensive, small, or both. What I miss about the burgers back home is the focus on the essentials. I miss perfectly grilled burger patties, baked in house buns, American cheese, crispy bacon, lettuce, and juicy tomato. These simple ingredients done well combine to make one of the greatest foods on the planet. I don’t want a wildly expensive burger with a sprinkle of truffles and some rare cheese that leaves me ravenous. I want a greasy, simple mess that spills all over the place and makes you close your eyes it’s so good. This is the type of burger I found yesterday. It’s extremely delicious, cheap, and easy to get to. We are in the Sangsu area a lot because or gym is there and we’re always on the lookout for something new to eat. Lately we’ve been eating a lot of Bibimbap since we found a place that serves it buffet style for only 5,000 won. I will do a review of this place soon, but despite the phenomenal deal, I can only handle rice, veggies, and eggs for so long before I snap. So when we walked by this little unassuming burger place and I saw the prices I figured it would be worth a try. The place is small, there are about 12 seats, and it’s decorated in Americana. The smell of baking burger buns was intoxicating and this made us hopeful for the burger. I was pleasantly surprised by the size of the double with bacon (8,800) and Ashley enjoyed the single cheeseburger with a fried egg for (6,800). The stock prices without extras like bacon and the fried eggs, were (7800) for the double and (5300) for the single with no cheese (5800 with cheese). I heard this place used to be slightly more expensive. These are the best prices for a good burger we’ve come across in Seoul. We also ordered fries, and they were very good, but the portion size was a little too small (2,500). The burger, however, was extraordinary. The bun was golden brown, warm, and slightly crunchy. The patties, Australian beef I believe, were juicy and perfectly seasoned, the cheese was gooey, the bacon was crispy and full of flavor, and the tomatoes and lettuce tasted fresh. I made a mess while I ate it, but it was a beautiful mess. The burger left me full and I will definitely be a frequent customer. For the price, I would say this is my favorite burger place. It’s a great version of the classic, no frills, American burger.
Directions: Sangsu Station Exit 1 Walk straight out of the exit for about 2-3 minutes The shop will be on your right. On the sign there is a star symbol and then the word burger, but its real name is 별버거 ;) ENJOY by Michael Jones. Korea produces some of the most delicious soups on the planet. I would say on par with, or even greater, than the other more well-known soups from Asia such as Ramen and Pho. There are so many varieties of soup in Korea that the Korean language has many different words like 국, 탕, 찌개, and 죽 to describe them. One of the most famous of these soups is Samgyetang. Samgyetang is the closest thing you will get to finding some old fashioned American style chicken noodle soup. My grandma always made hers with a whole chicken, freshly sliced carrots, onions, celery, and noodles. Samgyetang also uses an entire chicken, but instead of noodles, rice is used and is usually stuffed inside the chicken. The vegetables are also different and Samgyetang is made with ingredients like garlic, scallions, dates, and spices like ginseng and jujube. I’ve only had Samgyetang a handful of times, probably because it’s fairly expensive compared to a lot of other Korean dishes, and because I was never that impressed by it. This changed, however, when I went to Tosokchon Samgyetang (토속촌 삼계탕), near Gyeongbokgung, this month. I’ve walked by this restaurant many times and have witnessed lines 50 people long, so I knew someday I had to try it. The other day we did. It was about an hour before closing, so they were not packed, and I was impressed by the size of the restaurant. The place is basically constructed out of many conjoining traditional Korean buildings. I can’t believe a place this large could have waits out the door consistently. I knew at this point that we were in for something special.
The three of us ordered the basic, traditional Samgetang (~15,000 won) and a bottle of Makgeolli. A complimentary bottle of Insamju, or ginseng wine was served. However, this alcohol tasted so strong we didn’t drink very much of it. The chicken came out boiling and in a dark, rich smelling broth. After waiting a few minutes to save my taste buds, I ate the first spoonful and it was extraordinary. The chicken was tender and the broth was creamy rich from the bones. On the table there was salt and pepper provided so you could season it to perfection. I added just a pinch of salt before dismantling the chicken and spreading the meat and white rice through the broth. Every spoonful was packed with flavor and I savored every bite. Now I finally understand why so many people rave about this dish. I know one thing for sure, when you see Korean people waiting in line for Samgyetang this summer, be on the lookout for some foreigners, it might just be me and my friends. Directions: Come out of Gyeongbokgung, exit 2 (subway line 3) Walk straight about 120 meters. Once you pass Popeyes and GS25, turn left onto the small alleyway. The restaurant will be on your left. by Ashley Heil. This is a little bit of a delayed post, but one I didn't want to forget about! While flying home to the USA, we had a long layover, from 9:55AM until 4:40pm in Tokyo in order to switch between Tokyo Haneda and Tokyo Narita layover. Being over 6 hours, I definitely wanted to use this opportunity to see a little more of Tokyo and eat some great food. At first we considered going more into Tokyo proper to eat at our previous favorite ramen restaurant in Tokyo, Ichiran ramen, but after considering it our time in Tokyo seemed to short to manage this. I found out about this little town called Narita, just 2 train stops away from Narita airport. This seemed like the perfect place to come. I did some research on the trains and some directions, and we were set. So, on the day of our layover, we quickly got off our plane and got our bags, and asked the nice helpful airport customer service workers for directions to Keisei Narita station. We got our train tickets, and we were on our way. I believe it took about an hour and 45 minutes to get to Keisei Narita station from Haneda. You can also choose to go to JR Narita station, they're both in Narita town. I think for the money and time the Keisei line was the best bet. At Narita station, we were able to stow our bags in some lockers there. If there aren't any lockers available at the Keisei Narita station, you can always use the JR's lockers as well. After walking a little bit on Omotesando road, we found Ramen Bayashi. Inside, there are decorations of planes and souvenirs from different airlines around the world. You see, this ramen resturant and town is famous for having pilots and flight attendants come here on their long layovers. While waiting for our food and eating we even overheard two pilots next to us talking about flying different models of planes. It was quite fascinating. Although this restaurant is famous with foreigners and people on layovers, there was plenty of Japanese people there as well, so it was still quite authentic. We both ordered the spicy pork ramen, and one order of the Goyaza. The broth was spicy, but not overly spicy. It was superb. I normally order tonkotsu ramen at ramen restaurants, so this was a great change. The pork and noodles were delicious as well. The bowl was plenty big, with the addition of the gyoza we were very full after the meal. The goyaza was excellent as well. After enjoying the ramen we walked around the cute traditional town and went to visit Naritasan temple. Behind the temple there was a beautiful Japanese garden. Just walking around there, we couldn't believe we were enjoying all of that just on a layover. We even got a little carried away with the time because it was just so beautiful and we didn't want to leave. Really it was seeing this temple and the beautiful garden that made the trip to this town on our layover worth it. So, if you're on a long transfer layover from Haneda to Narita (any less than 6 or so and it might be cutting it too close) and vice versa, or just a long layover at Narita, I recommend you go to Narita town and visit this ramen restaurant. And yes there are plenty of other amazing ramen restaurants closer to Tokyo proper, so I wouldn't come here just for that, but if you're going to the airport anyway I recommend it just for seeing this cute town and temple. Prices: Ramen: around 850 yen . Goyaza: 400 yen Directions: Ramen Bayashi is located at the beginning of the old Narita town, on Omotesando road. If you're on a layover at Narita airport, store your luggage in lockers at Narita airport's arrival floor, or at the train station's locker rental. Take the local Keisei train about 10 minutes to the Narita city stop (1 or 2 train stops away from Narita airport depending what terminal you are at). The train costs 250 yen per person each way. If you'd like, there are tourist centers in Narita city and at the nearby JR Narita train stop, stop by one of these tourist centers and the workers will happily give you directions to the sites in Narita and provide you with a map for free. From Keisei station, turn right outside the station. On the next street, there is a bridge heading towards the old Narita town. Go over the bridge, and before you dead end into Omotesando you'll see Ramen Bayashi on your left. Here is a link to a website with more information: http://www.nrtk.jp/ndb/site/detail/219/?lang=en
and a facebook page (though it looks like their unofficial page), where you can read some more reviews https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ramen-Bayashi/183302421688202 by Michael Jones Over the weekend we went to Pajeon alley with a group of friends and we were completely blown away by the Jeon (전). It was definitely the best Jeon we’ve ever eaten. For those of you who might be new to Korean food, Jeon is essentially a Korean pancake that can be made with many different types of meat and vegetables then mixed in flour/egg batter and fried in oil. Pajeon alley is a small street located near Hoegi Station on line 1 that is famous for making the best Pajeon in Seoul. Pajeon is a seafood variety of Jeon and it’s savory, packed with flavor, and extremely filling. I’ve been there a few times with a good friend who lives next to the station, and although I enjoyed the other places, they never impressed me as much as I was expecting them to. That changed this time. The place our friend took us to on Saturday is called Nakseo Pajeon (낙서파전) and like many incredible restaurants, a shoddy looking exterior belies the incredible food inside. The interior is intimate and filled with wooden tables and the roof is small in places, so watch your head. It feels very comfortable though and very authentic. The place was busy the entire time and the reason was the otherworldly food and the cheap prices. For 5 people we ordered two different types of Jeon: kimchijeon (8,000) and modeumjeon (9,000), one order of Jeyuk-Bokkeum (spicy pork) for 8,000, and three bottles of Makgeolli for just over 38,000 won. It was a very cheap meal split between 5 people and the serving sizes were huge. The Jeon was served on a wooden tray and was the size of a pizza, and I’m talking about a large pizza. My girlfriend and I are huge eaters and it is hard for us to get full, but this place pushed us over the edge. The Jeon was crispy and just greasy enough to be delicious, but not enough to make you feel like a horrible person. The Jeon was packed with seafood (octopus) and vegetables and was very rich. It’s the perfect food to eat with Magkeolli and share with friends. The kimchijeon still had a little octopus in it, but not as much as the modeumjeon so its a better choice if you're not a fan of seafood. The pork bokkeum was average, but that might just be because after eating the Jeon anything we ate would’ve tasted bland in comparison. This place is truly a special restaurant and deserves a visit.
Directions: Go to Hoegi station (회기역) exit 1. Turn left on 회기로28길 (the second big street on your left after exit 1). Nakseo Pajeon will be on your left. Address: 서울 동대문구 회기로28길 11 by Michael Jones.
Gamjatang (감자탕) is a delicious soup made with tender chunks of pork, pork spine to be specific, potatos, sprouts, rice cake, onions, and other vegetables. The broth is a rich dark red color from the boiled peppers and is extremely flavorful. The flavor from the spices mixing with the fat from the pork is otherworldly. The bean paste, chili powder, and garlic accentuate the rich flavors of the pork perfectly. This is hands down one of our favorite dishes and we are always on the lookout for new Gamjatang restaurants. This week we found a new place that serves some great Gamjatang near Sangsu station. This place is one of our favorites. The place has been open since the 1980s, longevity is always a good sign in a highly competitive market like Seoul, and that's because they serve some mouth watering soup. Another bonus is that Su Bong Gamjatang (수봉 감자탕) does not abuse the salt. Some places use far too much and the salt dominates the other ingredients. For the money (33,000 won), split between 3 people, I've never seen more chunks of pork. There was at least 7 or 8 huge pieces and the meat was perfectly cooked. The tender strips came right off the bone. It was a large serving and the perfect amount to share with friends. Next time you visit the Sangsu area you should give Su Bong Gamjatang (수봉 감자탕) a try. Directions/Address: 서울 마포구 어울마당로 56 Here is the easiest way to get here: Come out of Sangsu station exit 1 Walk down the road a little ways and turn right on 어울마당로. Walk down this road about 300 meters and Subong Gamjatang will be on your right. Let's face it, Asian countries make the best soups on the planet. From the many different soups and stews of Korea, to Japanese Ramen, and last but not least, Vietnamese Pho, the soups in Asia are fantastic. I'm always on the lookout for new places to try these dishes, and a few days ago I found one. While exploring the area around Sangsu station with my girlfriend, our senses were ensnared by the intoxicating smell of rich broth wafting through the street. The smell was so wonderful we had to check it out. We ate the Pho there and loved it so much, we had to go back with friends. The first time, I ordered the well-done flank steak Pho (7500 won) and the second time I ordered the chicken Pho (8500 won), and the fried spring rolls (5500 won). First, I noticed the incredible taste, but I was also thrilled by the size. I'm a big guy (90+kilos), and after a hard work-out session the soup still made me feel full. That is no small feat. The broth was rich, but not over-powering. The noodles were the perfect consistency, and the meat was tender. For the money I think the steak Pho is a better deal than the chicken Pho because of the amount of meat in the soup. The fried spring rolls were mind-blowing, and I could eat them all day. The outside layer was perfectly fried and not burnt at all. The outside was flaky, and perfectly golden brown, while the inside was moist, and packed with flavor. Also available at Little Papa is Banh Mi sandwiches, fried rice topped with egg, noodle dishes, and Vietnamese beer. The interior was small but inviting, and from the open kitchen, you could smell incredible things cooking while you wait. The service was also great and fast. If you want some delicious Pho, then you should visit Little Papa.
Directions: From Sangsu station exit 1, make a u-turn. Walk straight until you see Paik's coffee on your left. Immediately, take a left and walk straight 3-5 minutes. Little papa will be on your right. |
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